Finishing is where denim becomes a product. The same 13 oz fabric can leave the laundry as a rigid raw jean, a vintage mid-blue, or a bleached summer wash. Understanding the menu lets you specify outcomes instead of pointing at photos.
The Finishing Menu
| Finish | Method | Effect | Cost / notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Raw / one-wash | Skip laundry or single rinse | Dark, rigid, fades with wear | Cheapest; needs shrink education |
| Stone wash | Pumice stones tumble with garments | Faded, softened, abraded surface | Classic; stone dust management |
| Enzyme wash | Cellulase enzymes eat surface fibers | Even softness, smoother hand | Stone-free alternative |
| Acid wash | Stones soaked in chlorine, dry tumble | High-contrast mottled | Fashion risk; chemistry control |
| Bleach wash | Dilute bleach programs | Overall lighter cast | Watch elastane damage in stretch |
| Sandblast (legacy) | Compressed sand | Localized wear | Banned/dangerous — replaced below |
| Laser | Programmed laser etching | Whiskers, fades, graphics | Repeatable, waterless |
| Ozone | Ozone gas chamber | Back-stain removal, lightening | Water-saving, chemistry-light |
| Hand work | Hand-sanding, grinding, repairs | Authentic localized wear | Craft cost, one-off variation |
Three Rules for Specifying Washes
- Reference a physical wash standard, not a photo. Photos lie under different lighting; a sealed lap-dip standard does not.
- Agree the wash recipe in writing — stone load, enzyme %, temperature, time. This is what makes reorders match.
- Ask about water and chemistry if sustainability claims matter to your brand: laser and ozone cut both dramatically.
Sandblasting: A Word of History
Traditional sandblasting destroyed workers' lungs and is banned in serious supply chains. Its modern replacements — laser, hand-sanding with proper extraction, ozone — deliver the look without the silicosis. If a factory still offers "cheap sandblasting," that price is subsidized by someone's health. Walk away.
Raw Is Also a Spec
"Unfinished" is not a spec. Raw products still need rinse decisions, sanforizing status, and dimension stability targets. Write it down like any other finish.