Every unwashed denim fabric has shrinkage locked inside it. Sanforization — a mechanical pre-shrinking process that compresses fabric between a rubber belt and a heated cylinder — sets the weave so it moves less than 1–2% in a cold wash. Unsanforized (loomstate) denim skips that step and keeps every bit of its 6–10% potential shrink, plus a rougher, hairier surface many enthusiasts prize.
Side by Side
| Attribute | Sanforized | Unsanforized (Loomstate) |
|---|---|---|
| First-wash shrink | < 1–2% | 6–10% |
| Fit risk | Low | High — needs soak-first policy |
| Fade character | Sharp, even | Deeper, more dramatic |
| Hand-feel | Firm, consistent | Rougher, hairier |
| Best for | First raw line, e-commerce sizing | Heritage brands with educated buyers |
What This Means Commercially
Selling unsanforized denim online is a support-ticket generator. Unless your product page explains a soak-first ritual clearly — and your customer reads it — you will refund jeans that "shrank two sizes." Sanforized raw delivers 95% of the fade story with none of the size-chart chaos.
When Unsanforized Is Worth It
Heritage-flagship products, limited runs sold to collectors, and markets where the soak ritual is part of the purchase experience. If you go this route, print the shrinkage percentage on the care label and size guide, and offer a video guide. Your return rate will tell you if it worked.
For most brands launching a first raw line: start sanforized, learn the returns data, then graduate.